Traditional home with a red brick chimney against a blue sky

Quick AnswerIf your damper won't close fully, rattles, or is missing altogether, you're losing heated or cooled air straight up the flue every day of the year. We install top-sealing dampers, which seal at the top of the chimney for the tightest fit, or repair and replace throat dampers when a top-sealing unit isn't the right fit for your setup.

What’s Included

A damper does its job long after the fire's out - it's what keeps your furnace or air conditioner from working overtime to replace air that's escaping up an open flue. We install both top-sealing and traditional throat dampers, matched to your chimney's construction and how you use the fireplace, and we test the seal before we call the job done.

  • Top-sealing dampers mount at the very top of the flue with a stainless steel plate and rubber gasket, giving a tighter seal than a throat damper and doubling as a rain and animal barrier.
  • Throat, or 'clamshell,' damper replacement is available where a top-sealing unit isn't practical, restoring a proper seal at the smoke chamber level.
  • We size and match the damper to your specific flue dimensions and appliance type, whether it's a wood-burning fireplace, gas insert, or factory-built unit.
  • Stainless steel cable-operated controls are routed so you can open and close the damper from the fireplace without climbing to the roof.
  • We check the full draft path during installation, since a new damper installed over an existing draft problem won't solve anything on its own.
  • Every install comes with a flat-fee written estimate up front, so the quoted price is the price you pay.

Signs You Need This

  • A damper that won't close all the way or won't stay open
  • Noticeable drafts near the fireplace even when it's not in use
  • Higher heating or cooling bills with no other explanation
  • Rusted, warped, or missing damper plates
  • Daylight visible around the damper when it's closed

Our Process

1

Inspection and Recommendation

We inspect your current damper, or lack of one, and the flue itself, then recommend a top-sealing or throat damper based on your chimney's construction.

2

Written Estimate

You receive a flat-fee, written quote before any work starts - no guessing what the final bill will look like.

3

Removal and Installation

We remove the old or damaged damper and install the new unit, sealing and testing it for a tight fit against the flue.

4

Operation Check

We test the damper through a full open-close cycle and, for top-sealing units, verify the cable control operates smoothly from inside.

How Much Does It Cost?

Damper cost depends on the type - top-sealing dampers generally run more than a throat damper replacement because of the added hardware and cable control, but they also provide a tighter seal and double as backup protection against rain and animals. Flue size and accessibility factor in as well. As with every job, we provide a written, flat-fee estimate before any work begins, and that number doesn't change once we're on the roof.

FAQs

A throat damper sits just above the firebox and closes with a metal plate; a top-sealing damper sits at the top of the flue and closes with a gasketed plate, giving a noticeably tighter seal and added protection from rain and animals.

Yes. An open or poorly sealing flue is effectively a hole straight to the outside. A properly sealed damper stops that year-round air loss, not just during fireplace season.

It depends on the appliance - some gas inserts require the damper permanently open or removed for safe venting. We'll check your specific setup and recommend what's code-compliant and safe before installing anything.

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